The mill at Žužemberk

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Open: every day 10 - 18 by arrangement
Tel.: 07/308-76-36

The River Krka was harnessed at Žužemberk to drive a complex of mills. Now only one is working, but the river still rushes through mill races and you can imagine the hive of industry here. The upper mill owners created a terraced garden, and a lone statue and grand row of trees remain , providing a glimpse of its former sophistication. If the miller is around, he may show you the working mill, producing buckwheat flour used in traditional dishes. At Dvor, 2km down river, you'll find the restored remains of a late 18th century water powered ironworks (see map - D).

Mirna Peč

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Mirna Peč's church spire is the focus of two valleys, Mirna Peč and Globodol, where you can explore a protected area of traditional agricultural landscape. Here also is the source of the river Temenica at Zijalo, under a cliff in a wood, and close by a steep path to St. Ana's church, where the painted clocks on the Baroque steeple are a welcome sign that in some places time does stand still. Lower down the valley is a working flour mill, open every day.

Novo mesto Old Town

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Sitting at a cafe in the cobbled square, you will get a good feel for the life of this vibrant town - the economic, cultural and political capital of Dolenjska. As you walk around the square with its arcaded shops and cafes and explore narrow streets beyond, you will find grand mansions and traditional houses, some clinging precariously to the cliff above the river. The Gothic church, Kapitelj, has a Baroque interior with a Tintoretto altar piece, 18th century marquetry choir stalls and a fine lofty crypt under the chancel.
The market is on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays.

Žužemberk Castle

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Open: Mo-Fri 13-16 by arrangement, Sa-Su 8-16 by arrangement
Tel.: 07/ 308-76-36, 308-75-84

For the first time the castle was mentioned in the middle of the 13th century. Its massive fortifications were severely damaged in 1945. There has been basic restoration but, at present, you need a guide to go inside - enquire at the bar opposite. The pilgrimage church on the hill, damaged at the same time, is now restored and its twin towers are once again a landmark in the valley.

Soteska Castle

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Soteska Castle was also damaged at the end of World War II and is now a ruin beside the Krka. Built in the late 17th century, old plans reveal its former grandeur as the home of Dukes of Auersperg and show extensive parterre gardens, linked through a Baroque gateway, to a walled garden with a beautiful Baroque pavilion.

Dolenjska Museum

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Open: Tu-Fri 8-16; Sa 10-13; Su 9-12, Mo closed, Tel.: 07/322-21-69

Make sure you visit the Dolenjska museum in the centre of old Novo mesto. As well as the exceptional archaeological collection (see page 3), there are 19th Century glass paintings and commemorative wedding jugs alongside traditional agricultural implements and the stories of bee-keeping, candle making and honey cake baking are told. There is also a wine cellar and saw mill on display, and the museum has an excellent programme of temporary exhibitions. For a good souvenir try the museum shop, it sells quality replica brooches.