"I walked through our land and drank in her charms," wrote Oton Župančič in his poem Duma. These places where the poet spent his childhood years, their environs bedecked with vineyards where the Črnina grape ripens and the berries for the excellent Ice Wine freeze on the vine, captivate the traveler with their charms of flowing water, hills and vales, their heritage from the past and beautiful scenes from the present. A circular route from the capital of Dolenjska to the warmest river in Slovenia, from Vinica to Črnomelj, famous for its St. Martin's Day celebrations, and Metlika, with its Spring Wine Festival, will call to mind the poet's description of Bela krajina.

Day 1:
From Novo mesto, the capital of Dolenjska, cross the Gorjanci hills into Bela krajina.
You can get to the village of Krupa by way of Metlika or Semič. Here you will find a powerful karst spring gushing forth from a rock face. The Krupa River erupts magnificently from beneath a sheer cliff, but after only 2.5 kilometers flows into the Lahinja River.
In the past its power was used to drive mills and sawmills. After viewing the source, return to Semič for a snack or visit one of the many local wineries.
Spend part of the afternoon on Mirna gora. From the extreme edge of Bela krajina, Vrčice, you can drive to the mountain hostel on Mirna gora or walk up along the Trdin Footpath. The converted church tower next to the hostel offers a panoramic view of Bela krajina, the Gorjanci hills, and Gorski Kotar. From the hostel to the summit of Mirna gora is only a fifteen-minute walk.
Continue on towards Rožanec and from there on foot to the hidden shrine in honor of the ancient God of Mithra. An informative plaque provides information about this ancient religion.
In Črnomelj you can visit and sample the wares of the Črnomelj Wine Cellars, containing a wide selection of bottled wines from Bela krajina. Afterwards continue on towards Stari trg ob Kolpi. After exploring the village and the Baroque-style Church of St. Joseph, treat yourself to a delicious dinner and a comfortable night's rest.

Day 2:
After breakfast go in the direction of Črnomelj, but take the turnoff for Vinica, the birthplace of Oton Župančič, before you get there. A collection of works by the poet is on display there (1). Vinica Castle, with its late Gothic chapel, rises up above the Kolpa. Before continuing today's route, stop off for a hearty snack.
The Kolpa River follows the Slovene-Croatian border and takes you to the village of Žuniči, in whose environs descendants of the "Uskoki" can be found. These were refugees from the Turkish invasions who settled in parts of Bela krajina in the 16th century. Visit Šokec Manor, which houses the visitor center for the Kolpa Regional Park, extending from Stari trg to Fučkovci.
Conclude your wanderings around Bela krajina in Metlika. At the outskirts of the town the Metlika Wine Cellars will beckon you with their treasures, most notably the first ice wine to be bottled in Slovenia. During a tour and wine-tasting session (call ahead for reservations) you can sample a variety of Bela krajina special wines in addition to the best known Metliška Črnina.
In Metlika take a look round the old town center and Metlika Castle with the Bela krajina Museum (2), in which you can familiarize yourself with the history, ethnology and archeology of this region. Visit also the Slovenian Firefighters' Museum (3), with exhibits commemorating the first fire brigade in Slovenia, established in Metlika in 1869. In town the Church of St. Nicholas is well worth a look, as are the nearby Provost's house, the former command post of the Teutonic Knights, and the town hall.
Top off your sightseeing in Metlika with a late lunch, then return over the Gorjanci hills going towards Novo mesto and along the Krka River towards home. You can also spend the night in the village of Krka.