Heritage Trails through Dolenjska and Bela krajina in Slovenia
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THROUGH THE LAND OF CVIČEK
Mirna Peč - Novo mesto - Otočec
TWO-DAY TOUR

"...Where there is no wine, as the saying goes, there is also no joy. Thus Dolenjska, with its abundant vineyards, is an exceedingly fortunate land compared to many others..." So wrote J. V. Valvasor in 1689 in his famous book. Wine is not just a beverage, it is the personification of something special and valued, a unique product created jointly by the hand of nature and the hand of man. On a journey through these attractive landscapes, you too will have the opportunity to acquaint yourself with it. Your friendly local hosts will serve you a glass of the excellent Cviček wine, which to describe fully would require a barrel of well-chosen words. For this reason it is perhaps best that each person try it for him or herself...

Day 1:
Turn off the main road between Ljubljana and Novo mesto at Trebnje and drive towards Mirna Peč. The Temenica River, which originates beneath the village of Javorje, south of Litija, runs parallel to our route. Along its course it disappears underground and re-emerges at the picturesque spring of Zijalo, near the village of Vrhpeč. The river accompanies us past Mirna Peč, after which it again drops below the surface into the mysterious subterranean wolds of the Dolenjska karst, and reappears at Luknja gully.
It is at this point that we bid farewell to the Temenica and continue on towards Novo mesto.
A walking tour of Novo mesto begins at Novi trg in front of the Krka Hotel. The route takes us past the Miran Jarc Library to the historic and picturesque central square of the city, Glavni trg. Not far from here is the Franciscan monastery and the Church of St. Leonard, where you can view the rich collections of the library and various incunabula and paintings by the Baroque artist V. Metzinger. Our walk continues on to the famous quarter of Breg, the most picturesque part of the old town center.
Visit the Dolenjska Museum (1) with its permanent collections in modern history, ethnology, cultural history, archeology and other areas. The archeological collection, which reflects the times from the late Stone Age to late antiquity, is one of the most important in Slovenia; some of the artifacts on display are among the most valuable finds in Europe. Tour the Chapter Church of St. Nicholas with the altar painting by the Venetian master Tintoretto. In the Provost's house you will be able to view the portrait gallery of Novo mesto provosts, the library, and a multimedia presentation.
After lunch, drive to Bajnof, then continue the tour on foot, past the stone huts (called zidanice in Slovene), and through the vineyards to the top of Trška gora, at 429 meters a popular walking destination. Beside the pilgrimage Church of Mary's Birth, built in 1620, are four linden trees several hundred years in age. From here there are spectacular views of the Gorjanci hills, much of Kočevski Rog, and the Novo mesto basin. On the way back down stop at one of the wine cellars to sample some local Cviček wine and have a bite to eat.
From here the health spa of Šmarješke Toplice is within easy reach. Enjoy the beautiful natural surroundings and take advantage of the recreational facilities (swimming pool, sports fields, and footpaths). Nearby are the Klevevž natural hot springs.
Just a few kilometers from Šmarješke Toplice along the Krka River is Otočec Castle (2), the only remaining island castle in Slovenia, now converted into a comfortable hotel. Take a stroll among the grounds of the beautiful castle park.
Conclude the day at one of the many quality inns of the region.

THROUGH THE LAND OF CVIČEK
Pleterje - Kostanjevica na Krki - Stopno - Šentrupert - Vesela Gora - Trebnje

Day 2:
On the second day leave Novo mesto and drive towards Šentjernej. Follow the signs for the Carthusian monastery of Pleterje (3), which was established in the 15th century by Herman II of Celje. After viewing the Gothic Church of the Holy Trinity, which is the oldest part of the monastery, enter the old sacristy, where you can view a multimedia presentation of the monastery and the lives of the White Monks, as they are sometimes known from the color of their habits. You can buy various monastery-produced articles and products in the gift shop before setting off along Pleterje Path. This four-kilometer-long nature trail through the forest passes by huge oak trees (the tallest is 32 meters high) and an abandoned stone quarry among the vineyards of Pleterje Hill. From there, go to the outdoor Museum of Folk Architecture (4), where folk building traditions from the 19th century are on permanent display.
After several hours passed pleasantly in this way, have a hearty home-cooked lunch before setting off for Kostanjevica na Krki. This town has a positively idyllic location on an island in the middle of the Krka River. Of special interest is the old town center, where you can visit the 13th century Church of St. Jacob and the Lamut Art Salon in the former rectory. The Cistercians were also active in Kostanjevica: a monastic community was established here in the 13th century by Bernard Spanheim. The monastery has been deserted since the end of the 18th century and today houses the Božidar Jakac Gallery (5), with an impressive collection of works by modern Slovene painters as well as old masters from the Pleterje Carthusian Monastery. Alongside the former monastery, which has the largest arcaded courtyard in Central Europe, is a permanent outdoor wooden sculpture exhibition: Forma Viva, one of the most beautiful collections of modern wood sculptures in southeastern Europe.
From Kostanjevica go towards Škocjan, where the road forks towards Stopno (6). Follow the old pilgrimage footpath uphill to the Church of Mary, with the 15th century paintings by Janez Ljubljanski.
Go through Mokronog to Šentrupert and visit the Church of Saint Rupert (7), one of the most attractive Gothic churches in Slovenia.
From Šentrupert drive into the Mirna Valley and on towards Trebnje, but stop first at Vesela Gora (8). The pilgrimage Church of Saint Francis Xavier was built here in the 18th century. Take some time to admire the works of Fortunato Bergant, Valentin Metzinger and Ivan Tušek. The village has a continuing tradition of regular livestock fairs and lively outdoor markets. The Rural Museum is also worth a visit.
Continue on to Trebnje, where you will see abundant vineyards and numerous stone cottages (zidanice) where the local Cviček wine is produced. Continue on to Trebnje, where you can see the Gallery of Naive Artists (9) and the nearby late Gothic Church of the Virgin Mary with the altar painting by Matevž Langus. In front of the church stands a monument to the famous missionary and bishop Friderik Baraga, who worked among the North American Indians. Time permitting, walk from Trebnje castle along Baraga Footpath to the birthplace of this missionary in Knežja vas and come back to Trebnje by way of Dobrnič.
After a full day's adventures you can retire for the night in one of the local inns.





NOTES:
(1) Dolenjska Museum, Muzejska 7, Novo mesto (07/373-11-30), open Tuesday - Friday 8 - 16, in summer 8 - 17, Saturday 9 - 13, in summer 10 - 17, Sunday 9 - 12, in summer 10 - 13, closed Monday
(2) Otočec Castle, Grajska cesta 1, Otočec (07/307-56-99)
(3) Pleterje Monastery, Drča 1, Šentjernej (07/308-12-25), open daily 8-18, in winter 8-17, multimedia presentation daily until 17 (minimum five persons)
(4) Pleterje Outdoor Museum, Drča 1, Šentjernej (07/337-76-80), open daily 9-18, in winter 10-17
(5) Božidar Jakac Gallery, Grajska cesta 45, Kostanjevica na Krki (07/498-70-08), open daily 9-18, closed Monday
(6) Parish Office of Škocjan (07/307-70-07), advance booking required
(7) Parish Office of Šentrupert, Šentrupert 20, Šentrupert (07/304-00-38), advance booking required
(8) For information contact Peter Kurent (07/343-45-50)
(9) Gallery of Naive Artists, Baragov trg 7, Trebnje (07/304-45-58), open Monday thru Friday 14-16, other times by appointment