WHERE THE HERDSMEN
LIVED
Logatec - Ledine - Ravne - Zakojca
- Zakriž - Cerkno |
From places where the former wagoners passed through
countless times to hamlets whose life inspired the famous
Slovene storyteller France Bevk leads a path of memories of
the time of the Austrian Empire, of experiences of elsewhere
forgotten flax seeds, of panoramas and local delicacies
We turn off the Ljubljana-Koper expressway and follow the
signs to Logatec. Along the road on the northern edge of the
Logatec polje run "Napoleon's Lindens," the longest
avenue of linden trees in Slovenia stretching for almost two
kilometers. In Logatec itself, a Renaissance manor built around
1600 reminds us of the Logatec nobility, and other imposing
buildings take us back to the period of the wagon trade. Among
them is the especially attractive Pri Ipavcu gostilna where
the Austrian Emperor Francis Joseph (1848-1916) once slept.
We can also visit the War Museum (1).
From Logatec, our route leads past Petkovec and Rovte to Vrh
sv. Treh Kraljev ("Peak of the Three Kings"). The
people intended to build the Gothic pilgrimage church of Sv.
Treh Kraljev (2) lower on the hill than it is today, but
legend says that overnight all the building materials appeared
on the peak, from which there is a marvelous view in all directions.
Those who enjoy panoramic views of the Julian Alps and the
Idrijsko-Cerkljansko hills can continue the tour to Idrija
on the old provincial road through Medvedje Brdo over which
wagons hauled mercury to Vrhnika centuries ago; otherwise,
we drive through Medvedje Brdo and Godovič to the main Ljubljana-Idrija
road. In Spodnja Idrija we take the Kanomlja road toward Vojsko
and after thirty minutes we arrive below the edge of the Vojsko
plateau where the Partisan Press of Slovenia (3) has
hidden in the shelter of tall trees since 1944. This excellently
equipped print shop is the most authentically preserved monument
of the National Liberation Struggle in Slovenia. After the
inspecting the print shop we visit Vojsko and enjoy a lunch
of homemade food at one of its tourist farms.
After lunch we cross the Idrijca River and drive to the village
of Ledine, where old-fashioned farm occupations are
still preserved. If we visit the village at the right times,
we can see the blossoming flax fields or watch the local people
making linen in the traditional way. The village lies between
mountain plateaus over which leads the Slovene Mountain Trail.
We enjoy a walk through the nature and stop at the Pr' Jureč
tourist farm, where among other things they will show us their
collection of old farm machinery and tools. We continue our
visit to the Cerkljansko region on the panoramic road passing
or through the villages of Trebenče, Poče, and Gorje. We can
turn to the village of Ravne pri Cerknem where the
Ravenska jama cave amazes us with its unusual snow-white aragonite
decorations and particularly with its world famous aragonite
"hedgehogs."
Across the slopes of the 1300-meter high Mount Kojca we arrive
at the village of Zakojca with its beautifully arranged
birth house of the writer France Bevk (4), the author of an
extensive opus of stories including the well-known "Kaplan
Martin Čedermac"("Chaplain Martin Čedermac")
and "Pastirci" ("The Herdsmen"). The homestead
is a fine example of local farm architecture and also houses
an ethnological exhibition.
On the road to Cerkno we stop in the village of Zakriž.
We visit its famous church and the fruit-drying kiln where
it is possible to purchase dried delicacies. On the surrounding
farms the friendly people will offer us a taste of homemade
brandy.
We end our day with dinner in Cerkno, where if we wish we
can stay overnight and continue our journey to new adventures
the following day.
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| NOTES: |
| (1) |
War Museum, Tržaška cesta 81A,
Logatec (01/754-27-81); open Saturday and Sunday
from 10:00 to 18:00, weekdays by prior arrangement
|
| (2) |
Parish Office, Vrh Svetih Treh
kraljev 7, Vrh Svetih Treh kraljev (01/750-10-09) |
| (3) |
Idrija City Museum, Prelovčeva
ulica 9, Idrija (05/372-66-00)
Partisan Press of Slovenia
open April 15 - October 15 every day 9 - 14 and
by prior arrangement, closed in winter due to difficult
access (snow), visits possible by prior arrangement
weather permitting
|
| (4) |
Pri Flandru Farm, Zakojca 1, Cerkno
(05/37798-00); or:
Cerkljansko Museum, Bevkova 12, Cerkno (05/372-31-80),
by prior arrangement |
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