WHERE THE WITCHES
BEWITCHED NATURE
Laze - Jakovica - Cerknica - Križna
jama - Snežnik Castle |
Life in Notranjska's karst poljes has always been full
of legends and stories through which the people tried to account
for the unusual natural phenomena found here. According to
folk tradition, witches live on Mount Slivnica above Cerknica
Lake. Who knows whether they really bewitched the world whose
face they fashioned of disappearing streams and depressions,
caves and stalactites and stalagmites, and an outstanding
wealth of botanical peculiarities?
We leave the Ljubljana-Koper expressway at the Logatec exit
and take the secondary road toward Laze on Planinsko
polje where the Unica River meanders lazily in many bends
before disappearing underground near Laze. Its swallowhole
below the settlement of Staje is covered with an iron grid
to prevent the stream from becoming blocked. In honour of
the inventor of this unique technical achievement, the locals
call it "Putickove štirne." In nearby Jakovica,
one of the smallest pilgrimage churches in Slovenia stands
right above a water spring.
We continue on to Cerknica, which has an interesting
old town core. The appearance of the town is marked
by the Nativity of Mary church that was rebuilt after being
burned down during a raid by the Turks and encircled with
a wall that remains partly preserved today. Beyond the town
opens Slovenia's largest karst polje on which Slovenia's largest
lake appears and disappears: the intermittent Cerknica
Lake. You can enjoy a presentation of the annual cycle
of this karst phenomenon, which astonishes us in every season
with its various appearances, in the museum in Dolenje jezero.
The model of the lake in the Jezerski hram Museum (1) explains
the origin of Cerknica Lake and shows the working of its numerous
swallowholes.
The most beautiful view of the lake and the polje spreads
from the top of Mount Slivnica (1114 m), which we can
reach on foot or by car. In dry periods we can walk on the
polje or take a ride in a hay wagon. We can complement the
discovery of this world famous natural phenomenon with some
local delicacies. At one of the tourist farms in the area
they will happily serve us an authentic meal.
The road that leads below the high Bloke plateau takes us
to Križna jama cave (2). Through the dry entrance area
past the Bear Passage where the bones of numerous cave bears
rest, we descend slowly to the underground river. We ride
boats through the water passage and in the light that reflects
in the magical blue-green colour of the water we marvel at
the many stalagmites that rise everywhere from the surface
of the underground river.
From Križna jama it is only a few kilometers to the Snežnik
Castle Regional Park (3). Along with the castle, its park,
and its avenues of lindens and chestnuts, we can also visit
the source of the Mali Obrh, one of the seven tributaries
of the Ljubljanica River. The castle, which is the focal point
of the park and also serves as a protocol center for the Republic
of Slovenia, boasts the original furnishings and artworks
from the time of its last private owners, the Schönburg family.
To round off a beautiful day spent on this Heritage Trail,
we will enjoy a dinner in one of the friendly gostilnas of
the region.
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| NOTES: |
| (1) |
Jezerski hram Museum, Dolenje jezero
1e, Cerknica (01/709-40-53, 041/561-870);
open Saturday and Sunday from 15:00 to 17:00 by
prior arrangement |
| (2) |
Alojz Troha, Bloška polica 7, Grahovo
(041/632- 153); every day by prior arrangement |
| (3) |
Snežnik Castle, Kozarišče 67, Stari
trg pri Ložu (01/705-78-14, 01/705-84-00); open
Wednesday to Friday from 10:00 to 12:00 and from
15:00 to 18:00; Saturday, Sunday,
and holidays from 10:00 to 18:00; Mondays and Tuesdays
by prior arrangement |
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