WHERE THE WITCHES
BEWITCHED NATURE
Cerkno - Idrija - Rakov Škocjan -
Cerknica |
From Cerkljansko forests to the forests of Snežnik,
from the Idrija underground to the Bloke plateau, so many
natural beauties will be revealed to the curious eye that
it is quite possible to be convinced that the witches of Slivnica
were at work here. The route, which seems such a short distance
on the map, is easily transformed into a two-day journey worth
every step.
Day 1:
We turn off the Ljubljana-Koper expressway toward Logatec
and past Idrija toward Cerkno. Signs lead us to the well-concealed
Franja Partisan Hospital (1) in the Pasica ravine.
Its fifteen cabins display the operating theatre, x-ray equipment,
the convalescent center, the kitchen, and the power plant.
Surrounded by the winds of war, more than five hundred wounded
soldiers could be hidden here. We will also visit the old
Čufar homestead and then enjoy a lunch in Cerkno.
From the embrace of the forests we return along the clear
Idrijca River to Idrija. In the town and its surroundings,
equipment and buildings connected with five hundred years
of mining mercury have been restored and arranged for visitors:
Gewerkenegg Castle (2), which was built for the needs
of the mine administration and for storing mercury and is
now a museum, a typical miner's house in the town, the Franciscan
Shaft with its museum of old mining machinery, the Kamšt (a
dam built high in the forest for sluicing timber down to the
mine), the Antonij Shaft (3) ... While the men worked
in the mine, the women of the town produced remarkable bobbin
lace, and the lacemaking tradition has been preserved to the
present day. Just as with lace, every Idrija woman knows how
to prepare the famous and delicious local specialty idrijske
žlikrofe, a sort of ravioli stuffed with potato, cracklings,
and chives.
From Idrija we return on the road to Planinsko polje, through
which we continue to Rakov Škocjan. In this regional
park we will explore the Rak stream, which in its mere six-kilometer
journey through a green valley from the Zelška jama cave to
the Tkalca jama cave has carved two remarkable natural bridges.
We end our day in Cerknica below Mount Slivnica, which according
to folk tradition is inhabited by witches. Here we will enjoy
dinner x and an overnight rest.
WHERE THE WITCHES
BEWITCHED NATURE
Križna jama - Grad Snežnik - Nova
vas |
Day 2:
After a hearty traditional breakfast in Dolenje jezero we
will inspect the model of the Cerknica polje, which after
a rainy spell is rapidly transformed into Slovenia's largest
lake, a most remarkable disappearing karst lake. The model
clearly illustrates this karst phenomenon that was first brought
to the world's attention by Janez Vajkard Valvasor, whose
research on Cerknica Lake brought him membership in
the Royal Society of London. In the Jezerski hram Museum (4),
we can see the workings of numerous swallowholes, and in dry
periods we can walk across the polje and discover the beauties
of this unusual karst world. At one of the tourist farms in
the area they will happily serve us an authentic meal. Those
who wish can ascend Mount Slivnica, the witches' mountain
(1114 m), from where there is a magnificent view of Cerknica
polje and the lake.
From Cerknica we continue on toward the Bloke plateau, turning
south at Bloška polica toward Lož where signs lead us to Križna
jama cave (5), whose dry upper passages were discovered
by prehistoric bears seeking spots to hibernate for the winter.
The most beautiful part of the cave is the water passage through
which the guide takes us by boat. Only the lights from the
boat reveal the beauties of the crystal water from which myriad
stalagmites rise.
After the underground experience and lunch, we continue just
a few kilometers to the Snežnik Regional Park and Snežnik
Castle (6), which still boasts the original furnishings
of its last private owner and is used for protocol occasions
by the Republic of Slovenia. On September nights, the surrounding
beech forest still today attracts hunters for the traditional
dormouse hunt.
From Snežnik Castle we retrace our route past Križna jama
cave and continue on to the Bloke plateau. This region is
famous for the Bloke skis that its ancient inhabitants used
for everyday travel and errands when deep snow paralyzed life
elsewhere. We can learn what Bloke skis looked like and how
they were used at the Slamar gostilna in Nova vas (7),
where a room has been devoted to the Bloke skiers. Here we
will enjoy our evening meal.
We return home on the same route looking forward to learning
about more unique and unusual places in Slovenia on other
Heritage Trails.
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| NOTES: |
| (1) |
JCerkljansko Museum, Bevkova 12,
Cerkno (05/372-31-80)
Franja Partisan Hospital
open April 1 - September 30 every day 9 - 18, March,
October, November 9 - 16, December, January, February
Saturday, Sunday and holidays 9 - 16 |
| (2) |
Idrija City Museum (Gewerkenegg
Castle),
Prelovčeva ulica 9, Idrija (05/372-66-00); open
every day from 9:00 to 18:00 |
| (3) |
Antonij Shaft, Arkova 43, Idrija
(05/377-11-42), www.rzs-idrija.si; Monday to Friday
from 10:00 to 16:00, Saturday, Sunday, and holidays
at 10:00,
15:00, and 16:00, larger groups by prior arrangement |
| (4) |
Jezerski hram Museum, Dolenje jezero
1e, Cerknica (01/709-40-53, 041/561-870);
Saturday and Sunday from 15:00 to 17:00, and by
prior arrangement |
| (5) |
Alojz Troha, Bloška polica 7, Grahovo
(041/632- 153), , every day by prior arrangement |
| (6) |
Snežnik Castle, Kozarišče 67, Stari
trg pri Ložu (01/705-78-14, 01/705-84-00), open
Wednesday to Friday from 10:00 to 12:00 and from
15:00 to 18:00; Saturday, Sunday,
and holidays from 10:00 to18:00; Mondays and Tuesdays
by prior arrangement
|
| (7) |
Gostilna Slamar, Nova vas 45, Nova
vas (01/709-81-52); open from 10:00 to 22:00, closed
Tuesday and Wednesday |
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