WHERE THE PILGRIMAGE
LEADS TO LINDENS AND SAINTS
Dobrepolje - Rašica - Maršiči - Nova
Štifta - Loški Potok - Osilnica |
From the astonishing karst polje of Dobrepolje to the
remarkable valley along the Čabranka River, we encounter thought-provoking
natural phenomena, the green experience of former pastures,
the intoxication of innumerable lindens, and the beneficence
of places where our ancestors built their many sanctuaries.
It is no wonder that Slovene literature developed here and
that some of the most remarkable Slovene legends originated
here as well.
Day 1:
From Ljubljana we take the road through Škofljica and Pijava
Gorica to Rašica, where we turn to go to Dobrepolje. Dobrepolje
is a typical karst polje, which can become a lake following
the heaviest rains and where we find many interesting karst
phenomena. One of the most interesting is Podpeška jama (Podpeč
Cave), which erupts with water following a downpour. This
cave, the first in Slovene history to get a detailed plan
(drawn by Janez Vajkard Valvasor in the 17th century), sometimes
functions as a swallowhole and sometimes as a fountain. Near
Zdenska vas is the Svetoantonska jama cave, named after the
church of St. Anton (1), where the local people hid
from their enemies in the turbulent period of Turkish raids.
In Ponikve we explore the church of St. Florijan. In Zdenska
vas there are many of the preserved double kozolec (hay-drying
racks) or toplars that give the villages of this area a characteristic
appearance. A unique feature of Dobrepolje is Slovenia's
largest linden grove. Below the crowns of the century-old
lindens there were once regular livestock fairs, which today
are being revived. In spring, the scent of linden blossoms
invites us to lunch at a local gostilna.
From Dobrepolje we return to Rašica, where on the site of
the former Trubar Homestead (2) stands the Temkov Mill
with its memorial exhibition on Primož Trubar, the author
of the first book printed in Slovene. The Homestead is one
of the stops on the cultural footpath that links the
homes of the authors Fran Levstik and Josip Stritar in nearby
Velike Lašče. After lunch in Velike Lašče, we continue on
to Ortnek, where we turn off the main road to Maršiči
to admire the church of St. Urh (3) from 1450. Among
its frescoes is the particularly interesting "pilgrim
fox" clothed in the insignia of a Church dignitary and
carrying a stolen goose in a sack. From here we drive to Nova
Štifta, and the church of the Assumption of the Virgin
Mary (4). This Baroque pilgrimage church draws attention
with its octagonal design, the arcade around the outside,
the high cupola above the nave, and the garland of chapels
inside. Near the church grows a group of linden trees, the
largest of which is twenty-five meters high and 815 centimeters
around.
After Sodražica we turn south toward the dry karst valley
of Loški Potok. The center of this green valley is the village
of Hrib-Loški Potok, which divides the valley into
two parts. The landscape is a marvelous mosaic of low-lying
cultivated fields, higher hay fields and pastures, and forests.
We reach Osilnica through Croatia: from Loški Potok we drive
to Trava and cross into Croatia at the international border
crossing at Podplanina. After visiting Čabar, we follow the
Čabranka River to Zamost, where we re-enter Slovenia just
a stone's throw from Osilnica, where we enjoy dinner and remain
overnight. Alternatively, we can skip Čabar and proceed directly
downriver to the Zamost border crossing and Osilnica.
WHERE THE PILGRIMAGE
LEADS TO LINDENS AND SAINTS
Kostel - Stari trg ob Kolpi - Rosalnice
- Stopno - Šentrupert - Vesela gora - Trebnje - Zaplaz |
Day 2:
In the morning we visit four of the seven churches in the
Land of Peter Klepec (5). Driving back up the Čabranka
Valley, we stop to see the churches in Žurge and Papeži, and
then we visit the church in Čačič. Back in Osilnica, we enter
the largest church in the area, the church of St. Peter and
St. Paul. If time allows, we can take a walk in nature before
lunch or abandon ourselves to the pleasures of the Kolpa River.
After lunch, our path leads to the recently restored church
of St. Egidija in Ribjek, then to the St. Vid church in Bosljiva
Loka, and as we leave the Land of Peter Klepec, to the church
of St. Ana perched on a high promontory overlooking the Kolpa
River. Above the village of Fara we stop to admire the Nežica
waterfall, and then continue on to visit Kostel Castle
(6) . The rest of the day can be spent relaxing beside the
Kolpa River or enjoying any of the numerous recreational possibilities
the area offers.
We enjoy a homemade dinner overlooking the river at Brsnik
farther downstream, and then continue along the river to Žaga
or on to Stari trg for a well-deserved overnight rest.
Day 3:
We begin our day in Stari trg ob Kolpi with a stroll
through the settlement and a visit to the church of St. Jožef
before continuing our tour toward Črnomelj and from there
to Metlika.
Just under three kilometers from Metlika is Tri fare
("Three Parishes") in Rosalnice (7), a cluster
of three Gothic pilgrimage churches from the 15th century.
We drive across the Gorjanci Mountain Range past Novo mesto
to Škocjan, where we take the road to Stopno (8) and
ascend the ancient pilgrimage footpath to the Church of
Mary with its 15th-century frescoes by Janez of Ljubljana.
We continue on via Mokronog to Šentrupert and the church
of St. Rupert (9), one of the most beautiful Gothic churches
in Slovenia.
From Šentrupert we go through the Mirna Valley and then toward
Trebnje, but first we take a side trip to Vesela gora
(10) where the pilgrimage church of St. Francis Xavier was
built in the 18th century. Here we can admire the paintings
by Fortunat Bergant, Valentin Metzinger, and Ivan Tušek.
In Trebnje we visit the Late Gothic Church of Mary
with its altar painting by Matevž Langus. In front of the
church stands a monument to the famous missionary and bishop
Friderik Baraga, who worked among the North American Indians.
If time allows, we can take the Baraga Footpath from Trebnje
Castle to the missionary's birth house in Knežja vas and return
to Trebnje via Dobrnič. Then we head toward Čatež to visit
the double-steepled Church of Blessed Mary (11) in
Zaplaz, one of the most remarkable pilgrimage sites in Dolenjska.
Near it is a spring whose water supposedly has healing powers
and is particularly helpful for eye diseases.
After our strenuous day, we conclude our tour with dinner
in one of the area's gostilnas.
|

| NOTES: |
| (1) |
Videm Dobrepolje Parish Office,
Videm NN, Videm (01/780-72-07); or:
Jože Zrnec, Zdenska vas 51, Videm (01/780-71-51) |
| (2) |
Trubar Homestead, Rašica, Velike
Lašče (01/788-10-06); every day med 9:00 in 18:00,
in winter by prior arrangement |
| (3) |
TIC Ribnica, Škrabčev trg 40, Ribnica
(01/836-93-35) |
| (4) |
Nova Štifta Franciscan Monastery,
Nova Štifta 3,
Sodražica (01/836-15-91) |
| (5) |
Osilnica Parish Office, Osilnica
21, Osilnica (01/894-16-30, 031/767-596); by prior
arrangement |
| (6) |
Castellum Tourist Office, Fara
25, Vas (01/894-80-10, 041/754-094); by prior
arrangement or
TŠD Kostel, Hrib 6, Vas (01/894-21-75) |
| (7) |
Metlika Parish Office, Mestni trg
14, Metlika (07/305-83-31) |
| (8) |
Škocjan Parish Office (07/307-70-07);
by prior arrangement
|
| (9) |
Šentrupert Parish Office, Šentrupert
20, Šentrupert (07/304-00-38); by prior arrangement |
| (10) |
Information: Peter Kurent (07/343-45-50) |
| (11) |
Čatež-Zaplaz Parish Office, Čatež
17, Velika Loka (07/348-90-14); church is open all
day Sunday, weekdays by prior arrangement; additional
information: Mr. Stopar near the church (07/348-90-31)
|
|
|